A few kilometers south on National
Highway 11 is the Keoladeo "Ghana" National Park (View
Map). Recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the park is definitely
worth visiting if you're a keen birder, but -- particularly
given the recent drought -- it's not a must-
see for people who don't know the difference between a lark and a
peacock.
A natural depression of land that was initially flooded by Maharaja
Suraj Mal in 1726, the park abounds in large tracts of wetlands (covering
more than a 3rd of the terrain) as well as wood, scrub, and grasslands,
a combination that attracts a large number of migratory birds that
fly thousands of miles to find sanctuary here. It was not always so
-- for centuries, the area was the Maharaja of Bharatpur's private hunting
reserve, and in 1902 it was inaugurated by Lord Curzon as an official duck- shoot
reserve (some 20 species of duck are found here). In the most shameful incident
in the park's history, Lord Linlithgow, then Viceroy of India, shot 4,273 birds
in one day -- the inscription of his record can still be read on a
pillar near the Keoladeo temple. Thankfully, the park became a sanctuary
in 1956 and was ultimately upgraded to national park status in 1982.
Today the park supports more than 375 bird species, including a large variety
of herons, kingfishers, pelicans, storks, and duck. It is the only
known wintering region of the rare and endangered Siberian crane,
which flies 8,050km (5,000 miles) to get here. The numbers are indeed
staggering, and birds will fill your vision throughout the visit --
particularly during the winter months (Oct-Feb), when the resident bird population
swells to over half a million. The park is also home to 13 snake species (including
the oft-spotted python), six species of large herbivores, and mongoose, civet,
and otter. A tiger was spotted many years ago, but you sense that the signs urging
caution are really there to inject a sense of romance and wildness into what is
otherwise a very tame experience.
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